by Kathy Miller Kramer
Hair is the ultimate accessory; it can add to (or detract from)
your overall look instantly. Keeping it in healthy condition is the most
important thing you can do to help it look and feel fabulous. And,
while it seems easy, this isn't as simple as minimizing chemical
treatments or slathering on a weekly deep conditioner. While these can
make your strands softer and less split-end-prone, what really matters
is the daily handling; this is what creates the most stress--and
potential damage--to your tresses. To help your locks look their best,
we asked top experts from around the country for their advice on how to
baby your mane every single day. So whether your concern is dullness,
damage, frizz or fragility, we have the answers to ease even the
toughest hair-care woes. Read on for tips to achieve
run-your-fingers-through-it hair.
1 Steer clear of plastic-bristle brushes. "The proper bristles
are key," says stylist Edward Tricomi of the Warren-Tricomi Salon in New
York City. "A combination of natural boar bristles on either a round or
flat brush are best for dry hair, while soft, rubber-toothed
wide-paneled brushes are best for damp hair." Our favorite brushes
include the Mason Pearson Boar Bristle brush ($78.50; zitomer.com) and
Aveda's Wooden Paddle Brush ($17; aveda.com).
2 Brush before shampooing. A few gentle strokes on dry hair
will help remove product buildup and scalp flakes, as well as stimulate
the scalp and promote blood flow (which delivers nutrients like oxygen)
to hair follicles. For a smoother slide, try Clairol Herbal Essences Let
It Loose Detangling Spray ($3; at drugstores).
3 Know your water. If your hair looks dull or is hard to style,
the problem could be your tap water. According to Minneapolis-based
Gordon Nelson, international creative director for Regis Salons, well
water contains natural minerals (called "hard water") that can leave
hair lusterless and hard to manage and can impart a brassy, orange hue.
Soft water, on the other hand, has fewer damaging minerals. (Ask your
local water department if your water is soft or hard, or try using
Robert Craig's No More Bad Hair Days Kit, $20; robertcraig.com; with
strips to test your water.) To rid hair of mineral buildup, suds up
every week with a clarifying shampoo. We like Frederic Fekkai Apple
Cider Clarifying Shampoo and Clean Conditioner ($18.50 each; saks.com).
4 Mist your ends with water before home coloring. The ends of
your hair are more porous and, as a result, absorb more pigment. "Wet
hair doesn't absorb color as readily as dry hair," explains Renee
Patronik, a consulting colorist for L'Oreal in New York.
5 Trim your troubles. As the ends of your hair get older and
damaged by rough handling, they become prone to splitting, Nelson says.
Get regular trims, at least 1/2 inch every four to eight weeks. "Hair
grows (on average) half an inch per month, so trim to maintain healthy
ends," says stylist Stephen Knoll of the Stephen Knoll Salon in New
York.
6 Use color-protective products. Chemical treatments like color
can damage hair because the chemicals have to penetrate the outer layer
of the hair (or cuticle) to allow the hue to be absorbed, explains
stylist Rodolfo Valentin of Rodolfo Valentin Atelier for Hair in New
York. Color-protective products are specially designed to minimize
dryness, keep color true and prevent damage. "They typically have more
nourishing ingredients, strip less color and are less abusive," Knoll
explains. We love L'Oreal VIVE Color Care Shampoo and Conditioner ($3.69
each; at drugstores) and Matrix Biolage Color Care Shampoo ($10) and
Conditioner ($11; matrix.com for salon locations).
7 Give wet hair extra TLC. It stretches and snaps more easily
than dry hair does, so be extra-gentle with it. "Use a wide-tooth
plastic comb while hair is wet; then, once it's towel-dried, switch to a
good brush," says Jon Patrick, color director of the Mete Turkmen Hair
Salon Plus in New York. And avoid wooden combs; wood can have
microscopic divots that snag hairs. Instead try the Jilbere de Paris
plastic shower comb ($1.49; sally beauty.com for store locations).
8 Deep condition once every two weeks. "These treatments
penetrate the hair shaft and strengthen strands," says Patrick, who adds
that using heat (from a blow-dryer) can intensify deep conditioning, as
the heat causes the cuticle to open and the ingredients to penetrate.
For nourishing results, try Kerastase Masquintense ($36;
877-748-8357 for salons), available for fine or thick hair; Neutrogena
Triple Moisture Sheer Hydration Leave-In Foam ($7; at drugstores); or
Ellin Lavar Textures ReconstructMasque ($25; ellinlavar.com).
9 Try an ionic dryer. Ions are atoms with a positive or
negative charge. These particular hair-dryers bathe your hair in
negative ions, which help break up water molecules faster and cancel out
hair-damaging positive ions, Valentin explains. Plus, your hair-drying
time is cut in half. We love the Bio Ionic Super-Hydrator Pro Dryer
($165; bioionic.com for salon locations).
10 Just use your dryer's nozzle, urges stylist Frank Galasso of
Frank.Studio in Santa Monica, Calif. It's the best way to help prevent
frizz because it concentrates the airflow on sections. "Without a nozzle
the dryer's grill gets very hot; if your hair gets too close to it, it
will cause damage and/or breakage," explains stylist Mark Garrison of
the Mark Garrison Salon in New York.
For curls, use a diffuser attachment to gently surround your
hair with air. Try Vidal Sassoon Ceramic Finger Diffuser ($8; hotus.com
for store locations). Follow up with John Frieda's Frizz-Ease Secret
Weapon Flawless Finishing Creme ($6; at drugstores) to smooth strands.
11 Give textured or relaxed hair a break. African-American hair
tends to be coarse due to a lack of natural oils (more so if chemically
processed), says New York-based celebrity hairstylist Ellin Lavar.
Lavar suggests opting for gentle color choices like semipermanent or
vegetable color. Spacing processing treatments at least two weeks apart,
with weekly conditioning treatments in between for shine maintenance,
helps.
12 Use the right accessories. Kim Vo, a stylist at West
Hollywood's B2V Salon, suggests putting hair in soft braids or twists
and using claw clips rather than barrettes, which can pull hair. Other
options: gentle Goody Ouchless elastic bands ($3 for 14; at drugstores)
and L. Erickson Grab 'N Go Pony O's ($12 for three; franceluxe.com).
RELATED ARTICLE: POINT & CLICK FOR HEALTHY HAIR
For great styling advice that doesn't sacrifice hair health,
check out the Dove Styling Tool, a tip-filled interactive guide created
with the help of top celebrity stylist Eva Scrivo. It's organized
according to the look you're trying to achieve. Find it at
dove.com/unstick_your_style.
RELATED ARTICLE
BAN BAD-HAIR DAYS We're giving 50 lucky Shape readers the
chance to try Robert Craig's No More Bad Hair Days Kit (a $20 value!).
The kit includes 12 water test strips, three shampoos for different
water types (soft, moderately hard and extremely hard) and a leave-in
conditioner. Visit Shape.com/RobertCraig from Oct. 18 to Nov. 14 for
your chance to win. Good luck!
KATHY MILLER KRAMER is a New York City-based freelance writer. Additional reporting by CARLY CARDELLINO.
COPYRIGHT 2005 Weider Publications
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